Same same but different

The seaweed is still around.

Seaweed and other things about Kashmir are the same since the last time I was there.
The houseboats are all there, too.
And the shops selling funny, furry things to Indian tourists who are cold.

But there are a few differences.

The anti-India sentiment, for one, is prevalent.
Spray painted words like these are everywhere.
"Go back India" is written on the roads.

There is less friendliness in the air.
I felt like smiling at everyone because I was back to visit--but my smile was rarely returned.

Kashmir can make itself so disagreeable and hard to love. What a shame.