
Seaweed and other things about Kashmir are the same since the last time I was there.


But there are a few differences.

Spray painted words like these are everywhere.
"Go back India" is written on the roads.
There is less friendliness in the air.
I felt like smiling at everyone because I was back to visit--but my smile was rarely returned.
Kashmir can make itself so disagreeable and hard to love. What a shame.
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